Since launching his streetwear brand Off-White in 2012, Virgil Abloh has become a staple in the fashion industry. After debuting at Paris Fashion Week in 2014 and becoming an LVMH finalist, Abloh gained access to major designers, buyers and established connections in the high-fashion industry. As a streetwear brand, Off-White was focused on printed sweatshirts, tees, industrial-themed belts and bags and revolutionary shoe collaborations. These collections were sported by rich socialites, hype beasts, models, celebrities, and social media stars.
Who is Virgil Abloh?
Abloh is recognized as a pioneer of high-end streetwear, or what he refers to as the “post-streetwear movement.” With roots in the hip-hop and skating culture, Abloh has managed to blur the lines between luxury and streetwear. Off-White embodies this juxtaposition perfectly, managing to captivate a young audience while maintaining a luxury price point.
Luxury streetwear was able to break through to an untapped market in luxury. A generational shift was taking place and young consumers held a significant portion of purchasing power. As a result, many luxury brands started to incorporate youth culture into their legacy as Abloh did – from Balenciaga selling puffer jackets to Louis Vuitton collaborating with supreme to Dior partnering with Nike.
In 2018, Abloh became the first black male artistic director at Louis Vuitton – a huge step for the brand as it’s one of the most profitable brands in the LVMH conglomeration. While Off-White is recognized for its iconic diagonal stripes and quotations, Louis Vuitton is known for its classic L.V monograms. Although Abloh is largely known as a consumer-savvy arbiter of cool, Off-White is not Louis Vuitton.
As a child of Ghanaian immigrants, Virgil Abloh has become a beacon of hope for minorities in the fashion industry. For a brand with such an extensive history of doing things their way, appointing Abloh as artistic director is a sign that the industry will continue to evolve into a more diverse place. Abloh is on the heels of a revolution in high-fashion and everyone is watching closely as he continues to push the boundaries.
Abloh is constantly compared to his predecessors such as Kim Jones, Marc Jacobs, and Nicolas Ghesquiere as artistic director of LV, all of whom have accredited degrees from Parsons and Central Saint Martins. Abloh, who has a background in engineering and architecture has faced backlash for his style of design, which is anything but traditional. Stating “That way of designing – to develop everything from zero – comes from a different time.”
Of course, I have my own personal feelings about Virgil Abloh and his ascendance into the fashion spotlight.
On the one hand, it is nice to see someone who has focused on streetwear now leading the helm at one of the most prosperous and easily recognizable fashion labels. On the other hand, how am I able to celebrate his role as a leading Black man in the space when it seems that he has rarely used his platform to highlight Black creatives and those outside of his circle? In fact, it can often feel like exploitation and snatching of smaller creatives. Virgil is doing things that are impactful for the culture, but the question of IF he is for the culture has been raised too often.
Abloh’s first menswear collection for Louis Vuitton debuted at Paris Fashion Week for SS19 where celebrities like Kim Kardashian, Rihanna, Naomi Campbell and Kanye West filled the audience. The runway used celebrity models as well as an abundance of Black models. With his first show he had already made so many strong statements about diversity, inclusion, and luxury.
Abloh is the catalyst for the major shift in luxury fashion. The industry has historically been dominated by the older generation who prefer classics, but Abloh is appealing to a newer generation. He embodies the cultural reset fashion has endured over the past few years.
